Cable Actuated Missing Links Installation Guide

Safety Items

  1. Safety glasses
  2. Leather gloves

Tools

  1. Madrone tools
    1. Bushing removal tool (M4 screw with handle)
    2. M4 press tool (M4 screw with magnetic base)
    3. Small press spacer (smaller diameter aluminum spacer with magnetic base)
    4. Large press spacer (larger diameter aluminum spacer with magnetic base)
  2. Vice (that can open at least 5" or 130mm)
  3. Bench with good lighting
  4. Pick
  5. Knipex (or similar) pliers with smooth parallel jaws
  6. Needle nose pliers
  7. Small flat screwdriver
  8. Metric hex wrench set
  9. T25 torx
  10. Optional: Knipex 49 31 40 snap ring tool.

Supplies

  1. Rags
  2. Threadlocker
  3. Small brush
  4. Citrus degreaser

Torque Specifications

Use removable thread locking compound on each thread.

  • M5 cable pinch screw: 4 N-m
  • M10 derailleur mounting bolt (SRAM): 10 N-m

Tips and Tricks Videos

This playlist has some short videos on tips and tricks.

Steps

Note: X01 and XX1 derailleurs use slightly different parts compared to GX. The Missing Links kit comes with all the parts needed for either type. Each variant will be detailed in the steps below, and you will end up with a few extra of most of the small parts. 

Clean the derailleur.

Back the limit screws and B screw all the way out, without removing them.

Remove retaining ring on cam. You can use a pick or retaining ring tool. Often they will get damaged, so you should replace it with a new one (supplied in the Missing Links kit).

Remove M5 screw on cam.

Remove cam.

Remove the plastic washer from the cam.

Remove 3 retaining rings from the remaining pins using a pick or retaining ring tool (no image for this). 


Press 3 pins out with vice and press tools.

Stick the press tools to the vice jaws and align them with the derailleur pin.

Place the large press spacer over the head of the pin.

Press the pin out with the M4 press tool.

Do this for 3 of the pins, except the one under the cage lock.

Pin removal and installation video is here.

For the remaining pin under the cage lock, press it out with a pick on the benchtop.

Place the large press spacer on the bench top.

Wear leather gloves for safety, and press the pin out with a pick.

Variant

X01/XX1: The links will not come off. Remove bushings with the bushing removal tool by inserting the tool into the bushing and prying them out.

You can watch a video showing the bushing removal technique here.

There is no need to save the links or bushings.

 

Variant

GX: The links will come off without the need for bushing removal.

There is no need to save the links or bushings.

(no image)

Variant

X01/XX1: Using a pick, remove the rubber rings from 4 counter bored holes on the mounting bracket and 4 counter bored holes on the clutch housing.

Clean all grease and debris out of all 8 holes.

.




Variant

GX: Using a pick, remove the rubber rings from 4 counter bored holes on the clutch housing. Clean all grease and debris out.

Using a pick, remove 2 the rubber shims stuck to the mounting bracket around the holes. They might be hard to see

You can watch a video on spacer and bushing installation here.

Variant

X01/XX1: Snap a 4 black plastic spacers into the counter bored holes on the mounting bracket 4 on the clutch housing.

Variant

GX: Snap 4 black plastic spacers into the counter bored holes on the clutch housing.

There are no counter bored holes on the mounting bracket, so they are not used.

The "Madrone" link will already have 1 bushing with a flange installed in it

Snap 3 bushings into the link marked "Madrone" and 4 bushings into the other link.

Identify the extremely small lip on the OD of the bushing

Install the bushing from the inside direction (not the outside), with the lip to go in last.

The lip will go in last, and hold the bushing in place

Snap the bushing in so they are flush with the surfaces on the links, using the pliers if necessary.

Clean pins and check them for straightness by rolling them on the bench.

X01/XX1 pins are different than GX pins.

Variant

X01/XX1: Put stainless steel washers (with 7mm OD) under the heads of 4 screws. You can use the SRAM pins or the Madrone pins.


Variant

GX: Do not put washers under the heads of any screw.

GX: Re-use the GX pins. The Madrone pins are designed to fit X01/XX1, and fit poorly on GX. If you are forced to use the Madrone pins on a GX derailleur, put washers under the heads of the pins.


Slide the inner link over the mounting bracket.

Slide the pin into the hole from the top.

Inner link installation video is here.

Variant

GX: Slide a stainless steel washer (with 8mm OD) between the link and mounting bracket. You can use another pin to hold the washer in plate while you push the pin through the washer until it is held in place.

 


Variant

X01/XX1: Do not slide a washer between the link and mounting bracket.

Press the pin in with the vice using the press tools.

Use the small press spacer and the M4 press tool.

Go slowly, do not force the parts together.

Periodically back off the pressure so the press tools can re-align.

Stop when you feel the pin has gone all the way.

Check the link to make sure it rotates freely.

Do not proceed to the next step until the link rotates freely – this affects shift quality.

To get the link to rotate more freely, press the pin back the other direction the smallest amount you can. You will need to use the large press spacer and M4 press tool. Ideally you will not be able to see any movement, but the reverse force will relieve compression that is on the bushing.

Slide the inner link over the clutch housing

Slide the pin into the hole from the top.

Press the pin in using the small press spacer and benchtop.

Rest the small press spacer on the bench.

Wearing gloves for safety, press the pin into the pivot by placing the head of the pin on top of the spacer.

Hold your thumb over the bushing so it does not get pushed out of the link

Press the assembly down into the spacer.

Check the link to make sure it rotates freely.

Do not proceed to the next step until the link rotates freely – this affects shift quality.

To get the link to rotate more freely, press the pin back the other direction the smallest amount you can. Ideally you will not be able to see any movement, but the reverse force will relieve compression that is on the bushing.

Slide the outer link over the mounting bracket.

Slide the pin into the hole from the top.

Outer link installation video is here.

Variant

GX: Slide a stainless steel washer (with 8mm OD) between the link and mounting bracket. You can use another pin to hold the washer in plate while you push the pin through the washer until it is held in place.

Variant

X01/XX1: Do not slide a washer between the link and the mounting bracket.

(no image)

Press the pin in with the vice using the press tools.

Unlike the previous pins, you will need to use the large press spacer to avoid damage to the flanged bushing.

Press the pin with the M4 press tool.

Go slowly, do not force the parts together.

Periodically back off the pressure so the press tools can re-align.

Stop when you feel the pin has gone all the way.

Check the link to make sure it rotates freely.

Do not proceed to the next step until the link rotates freely – this affects shift quality.

To get the link to rotate more freely, press the pin back the other direction the smallest amount you can. You will need to use the large press spacer and M4 press tool. Ideally you will not be able to see any movement, but the reverse force will relieve compression that is on the bushing.

Snap the extension spring hook over the rear outer pin using needle nose pliers.

Tip: Squeeze the pliers tightly so they do not slip off.

Snap the extension spring hook over the front inner pin using needle nose pliers.

Rotate the outer link over the remaining pivot hole in the clutch.

Press the pin in with the vice using the press tools.

Use the small press spacer and M4 press tool.

Go slowly, do not force the parts together.

Periodically back off the pressure so the press tools can re-align.

Stop when you feel the pin has gone all the way.

Check the linkage to make sure it rotates freely and the spring returns it easily.

Do not proceed to the next step until the link rotates freely – this affects shift quality

To get the link to rotate more freely, press the pin back the other direction the smallest amount you can. You will need to use the large press spacer and M4 press tool. Ideally you will not be able to see any movement, but the reverse force will relieve compression that is on the bushing.

 

Install washers (with 7mm ODs) and retaining rings for 3 of the pins (all except the one that goes through the cable cam).

Place washer (with 7mm OD) over each of these 3 bushings.

Press the washers and bushings down using a pick.



Note: The retaining rings in your kit might not look like the ones in the images here.

There is no need to worry, because for 3 of the 4 pins, either type of retaining ring will work great, and you can follow the installation steps using the same tools regardless of the type of retaining ring.

More on retaining rings here.

Install the first 2 retaining rings. These are the forward most pin on the link marked "Madrone" and rear most pin on the other link.

Rest the derailleur upside down on the bench top with the pin head contacting the bench.

Rest the snap ring on the end of the pin (not mis-aligned).

Note: If you have the retaining rings with 4 internal teeth, they are directional and should go on in the direction as shown in the photos. If you have the type like the SRAM retaining rings, they are not directional.

Snap the retaining ring down into its groove with the small press spacer.

Use a pick to make sure it is seated properly and there is no deformation to the snap ring. The is critical for a reliable installation.



Install the 3rd retaining ring on the pin under the cage lock.

Wear gloves for safety.

Use a small flat screwdriver to press each finger of the snap ring into the pin groove, one at a time.

To get the first finger into the groove, you can hold one side of the retaining ring with your thumb and then press an opposite finger into the groove with the small flat screwdriver.

Make sure the retaining ring is fully seated in the groove.

Place a 0.2mm thick shim into the hole in the cam.

If the lip around the edge of the hole is damaged, you can trim it off with a knife. The removed material will not affect the strength of the part.


Place the cam over the pin, seated in its position on the outer link

Ensure the shim is down in the bottom of the hole so the groove is visible.

Install the 4th retaining ring. Unlike the previous 3 pins, it must be a retaining ring with an open end (similar to the original SRAM snap rings). You will not be able to use the retaining rings with 4 internal teeth, because it wont fit inside the cam hole.

Do not use a retaining ring with any deformation or damage.

Rest the derailleur upside down on the bench top with the pin head contacting the bench

Rest the snap ring on the end of the pin (not mis-aligned).

Snap the snap ring down into its groove with the small press spacer.

Use a pick to make sure it is seated properly and there is no deformation to the retaining ring. The is critical for a reliable installation.

Make sure the linkage rotates freely, and the spring can return easily and quickly.


Apply threadlocker to the M5 cable clamp screw.

Install the M5 cable clamp screw, making sure not to forget the washer with the cable groove.

Make sure the cable groove is in the correct position and orientation. See image here of installed derailleur for reference on cable routing.

Apply thread locking compound to the 2 limit screws, the B screw, and the mounting bolt threads.

Thread the limit screw (for the small cassette cog) in so that the cable cam does not hit the cage when it moves.

Done!