Installing the Jab Super Clutch

Initial Steps

Make sure you have the tools and supplies above before beginning. It will make the work a lot easier.

Remove the Jab derailleur from the bike. There is no need to break the chain. You can remove the upper chain pulley and lower cage spacer, and the chain will come out of the derailleur.

Clean all dirt off the clutch cover and surrounding area. Do not allow dirt to get inside the clutch housing or it will prevent the clutch from operating smoothly.

Insert a knife under the clutch housing were the M3 screw was. 

Pry the clutch cover up and remove it. Wipe off dirt.

Remove the M5 screw using a T25 torx driver.

Remove the two M3 screws, and remove any parts held in place by them. Depending on the clutch that is already installed, the parts may appear different than the images here.

Remove the washers, shims, and conical disc springs from the spindle. These images show removal of the standard clutch, but if you are removing the super clutch, the steps are similar.

Tip: If some parts are difficult to remove, first try a tweezers or pick. If they are still difficult to remove, try a needle nose pliers as shown. Just take care not to damage the surface of any parts.

Install the Ratchet Ring Parts

Important

Locate the two M8 conical disc springs. They have a conical shape. The orientation of the springs is critical for proper function. When installed, they should face each other as shown, creating a void between them, similar to two crash cymbals.

Pawl Installation

Apply a very small amount of threadlocking compound to the two M3 x 6mm long socket head screws. Wipe off any excess.

Slide the small torsion springs over the two M3 x 6mm long socket head screws.

Important

The next steps are easier if the techniques are followed. Please follow the text and photos more carefully for the best outcome. We do our best to describe the easiest techniques.

Once the tip of the screw is at the hole, align the screw and tool with the hole so you can begin to thread it in.

The spring should not be caught on the higher edge of the aluminum. It should be as shown.

Using a tweezers, carefully grip the end of the spring and place it on the backside of the pawl in the groove of the pawl.

Tips

Do not bend or over-stress the spring. This can damage the spring and cause the ratchet to function improperly.

Start by wedging the tweezers under the end of the spring to get a good grip. The tweezers will be at an angle, not vertical. This will help grip the spring.

Move slowly and grip tightly.

Release the spring when you are certain it is on the back of the pawl.

Use the tweezers to seat the leg of the spring in the groove on the back of the pawl.

Now tighten the M3 screws. Use very light torque. The screw will also be held in place by the clutch cover later.

Tightening the screw might also push the spring down a little more.

Now use the tweezers to verify that the legs of the springs are seated in the grooves on the pawls. 

Tips

Grip the leg of the spring and wiggle it up and down, and you should see the pawl move up and down with it.

Gently push the pawl and both ends of the spring down with the tweezers.

Adjusting the Super Clutch

Start by installing 8 adjustment shims on the spindle. The shims are 0.2mm thick.

You will probably add or remove shims in a few steps. 8 shims is just an initial starting point.

Install the 1.5mm thick shim after the adjustment shims.

Install the M5 screw with 2 washers.

First place the serrated lock washer on the M5 screw.

Then place the standard flat washer on the M5 screw.

Tighten the M5 screw. It will be removed during the adjustment process so there is no need to apply threadlocking compound yet.

Adjustment Tips

The Super Clutch uses 0.2mm thick shims. 

The purpose of the clutch is to reduce chain vibration. This reduces the chance of dropping the chain from the chainring, and reduces chain slapping noises on the frame.

The super clutch applies friction in one direction when the cage is moving.

To make the clutch have more friction: Add 1 shim at a time, re-assemble the washers and screw, then check the friction. You can adjust the super clutch to apply a lot of friction if desired, but be careful not to make it too difficult for the cage to move. The conical disc springs can bottom out, and this will damage the derailleur and probably other parts of your bike too.

To make the clutch have less friction: Remove 1 shim at a time, re-assemble the washers and screw, then check the friction. You can even set the clutch to have no friction if desired. This will give the cage maximum freedom to move. But depending on how rough the terrain is, it may move too freely.

After you get the desired clutch friction, remove the M5 screw with a T25 driver. Ensure the male and female threads are free of grease. Apply removable threadlocking compound to the threads, and re-install it.

Torque specifications are here.

Make sure all parts are coated with grease. This will prevent contamination and corrosion.

Make sure the walls of the housing are coated with grease. This will make sure the o-ring seal on the cover keeps water and grit out of the clutch.

Make sure the o-ring is clean and seated in the clutch housing grooves as shown. There may 1 or 2 corners where the o-ring stretches across, but that is OK.

Locate the D shaped slot in the clutch housing.

Locate the D shaped protrusion on the clutch cover.

First, insert the clutch cover D shaped protrusion into the D shaped slot.

Then, rotate the clutch cover down, taking care not to pinch or tear the o-ring. Snap the cover all the way down.

Apply removable threadlocking compound to the M3 flat head screw and install it. Take care not to over-tighten the screw. 

Torque specifications are here.

Clean off all excess grease from the derailleur, and then re-install it.

Installation and adjustment instructions are here.

Done!